Chef Jan Birnbaum, executive chef/co-owner for San Francisco’s EPIC Roasthouse, reveals that food for Mardi Gras is usually about food that can be prepared ahead of time and is friendly all day so that you might make some festivities and parades before eating.
“It does not tend to be a day full of cooking as drinking and merriment are the biggest part of Mardi Gras Day,” he said. “Mardi Gras is all about friends and family, about gathering and all day and into the night partying.”
As for what to serve, the Baton Rouge native has plenty of memories to fall back on, and considers Gumbo Ya Ya as the tradition of the day.
“Usually based on a big gnarly Rooster and some Andouille Sausage,” he said. “Crawfish boil can often be a social component of food on Mardi Gras. After the day of merriment all join in someone’s back yard under the moss and sit at big tables and eat Crawfish, Spicy corn on the cob and potatoes boiled in crab boil until the mesquites are nipping at your ankles. It is an important day for functionality to be part and parcel to the dining experience.”
Birnbaum began cooking in Louisiana and will never forget Mardi Gras mornings.
“As they say ‘Morning is not for getting up for but for staying up for.’ My skin still crawls as I remember getting started very early on Mardi Gras day,” he said. “My old tradition was to start just after sun rise on Bayou St. John (an intercostals waterway that runs through an old part of New Orleans.) The Wild Tchopotoulas Indians, a group of Mardi Gras Indians headed by George “Big Chief Jolly” Landry will send chills up my spine. In their traditional head dress, ornate cultural costume and amazing soul rocking drum sounds, the smell of the water and the feeling of the moisture in the humid morning air bring back memories that are second to none.
“The loud drumming sounds and chanting sing song of the morning starts Mardi Gras morning like nothing I have known since. Of course the early morning fire water doesn’t hurt the mood. Usually then it was on to another amazing tradition of the Zulu parade. I am old enough to recall the people from the floats throwing out the golden coconuts. This is again a tradition unlike anything I have known since.”
Then it was time for good food with his close friends at an annual party in an old home on St. Charles Ave.
“By now we would need some food and often the smell of roux would penetrate the house,” he said. “A deep dark redish brown Rooster or duck gumbo with lots of corn bread would help to absorb some of the mornings libation.”
RECIPE
Spicy Rooster Gumbo
YIELDS : SOUP FOR 10 PPL
1 EA. 5-7 LB. ROOSTER OR ROASTED IF YOU HAVE NO ACCESS TO ROOSTER, CUT INTO 8 PIECES DO NOT REMOVE BACK BONE
2 LBS. ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE, SLICED IN 1/2″ THICK ROUNDS
2 EA. SMOKED HAM HOCKS
5 EA. RED BELL PEPPERS , CUT INTO LARGE DICE
5 EA. YELLOW BELL PEPPERS , LARGE DICE
5 EA. GREEN BELL PEPPERS, LARGE DICE
8 LARGE YELLOW ONIONS, LARGE DICE
3 CUPS + 3 cups HIGH GLUTEN FLOUR
3 CUPS RENDERED CHICKEN FAT
5 EA. BAY LEAVES
4 TBS. CHOPPED GARLIC
4 TBS. KOSHER SALT
2 TBS. CAYENNE PEPPER
1 TBS. GROUND BLACK PEPPER SPICE INGREDIENTS
2 tsp. GROUND CUMIN
2 tsp. HUNGARIAN PAPRIKA
2 tsp. GROUND CORIANDER
1.5 GALLON RICH CHICKEN STOCK
2 CUPS PILAF RICE
1 CUP SLICED SCALLIONS
2 LBS. OKRA, SLICED
2 EGGS
2 CUPS BUTTERMILK
2 CUPS CORN MEAL
PEANUT OIL
Place chicken stock in pot 2x as large as its volume. Place on back burner, bring to boil and reduce to simmer.
Mix all of the spice ingredients and reserve.
Prep meats and vegetables as required in above descriptions.
Place the ham hocks in the stock to simmer.
Place half of the onions and all of the green peppers as well as the chopped garlic and bay leaves in a large flat pan to prepare for the roux making.
Season the chicken parts with the spice mix to generously coat.
Dust the chicken parts in seasoned flour.
In a cast iron skillet heat the chicken fat almost to smoking. Fry the chicken parts over high heat to crisp the outside but not cook the inside of the chicken. Drain and add to stock.
Cut andouille. In a few drops of oil roast the andouille at 300 so as to render out the fat and carmelize surface of the andouille. Remove and reserve.
In a large flat cast iron skillet bring the chicken fat almost to smoking. Very carefully whisk in the flour.
Lower the heat to medium heat. Whisk the flour into the roux and continue to whisk in a circular motion around the cast ire pan. The flour will move through a range of colors from hazelnut to brick red and on to dark brown. When you have reached a deep red brown color, carefully pour the hot roux over the prepared peppers onions and spices stirring constantly until sizzling stops.
Add the roux to the stock a few spoons at a time leaving 5 minutes between each addition until it is all added. Add half of the seasoning mix. Allow to simmer for 30 minutes or until rooster is cooked an tender.
Strain back into a large pot. Saute balance of vegetables and add to stock. Pick cooked chicken. Add chicken pieces and andouille rounds. Place gumbo in serving bowls and finish with a spoon full pilaf rice and sliced scallions.
Corn Bread
Makes ONE 3X6 LOAF
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 ounces melted sweet butter
7/8 cup buttermilk
3 eggs
1 egg white
Optional:
1/2 cup fresh corn, chopped peppers, crisp bacon or cracklings
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
In a large bowl, mix dry ingredients, adding optional ingredients at this time.
In a separate bowl mix the Buttermilk, eggs yolk and melted butter. Stir this into the mixture of dry ingredients until well mixed.
Beat the egg white until stiff and fold into the other ingredients.
Butter a metal or pyrex loaf pan. The mixture may either be spooned or poured into the molds. Place in the oven and bake for approximately 30 minutes until golden brown. To check for doneness pierce the center of the bread with a toothpick. When it comes out clean it is done.